<?php
$url=(!empty($_SERVER['HTTPS'])) ? "https://".$_SERVER['SERVER_NAME'].$_SERVER['REQUEST_URI'] : "http://".$_SERVER['SERVER_NAME'].$_SERVER['REQUEST_URI'];

echo $url;

?>

After upgrading PHP for a client on a Godaddy Virtual Dedicated Server, I wrote this with use of other godaddy links.

Now this guide describes how to upgrade the standard PHP 5.1.x packages in CentOS 5.x 32-bit to the current development versions 5.2.x. These instructions were created using CentOS 5.3 32-bit and with the following PHP packages installed:

# rpm -qa |grep php

 php-common-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-cli-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-pdo-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-bcmath-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-ldap-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-devel-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-gd-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-xml-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-mbstring-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-mysql-5.1.6-15.el5.i386
 php-dba-5.1.6-15.el5.i386

As long as you’re using the standard PHP packages on your CentOS server you won’t need to do anything extra. If you’re using extra PHP packages that aren’t part of the standard CentOS repositories (like php-mcrypt) you’ll have to remove them or find updated versions of them.

Add the development repositories

First thing we need to do is add the development repositories to yum. When we add the development repository we’re going to configure it so it only pulls PHP packages. To start we’ll need create a new yum repository configuration file (use your favorite editor):

 # vi /etc/yum.repos.d/CentOS-Testing.repo

(Remember when using vi to create a file, press ESCAPE then ZZ (they are capital)

Copy/paste the following into this file:

  # CentOS-Testing:
  # !!!! CAUTION !!!!
  # This repository is a proving grounds for packages on their way to CentOSPlus and CentOS Extras.
  # They may or may not replace core CentOS packages, and are not guaranteed to function properly.
  # These packages build and install, but are waiting for feedback from testers as to
  # functionality and stability. Packages in this repository will come and go during the
  # development period, so it should not be left enabled or used on production systems without due
  # consideration.
  [c5-testing]
  name=CentOS-5 Testing
  baseurl=http://dev.centos.org/centos/$releasever/testing/$basearch/
  enabled=1
  gpgcheck=1
  gpgkey=http://dev.centos.org/centos/RPM-GPG-KEY-CentOS-testing
  includepkgs=php*

Make sure to remove any spaces at the start of each line, then save and close the file and you’re done.

Update PHP packages

Before updating your PHP packages you’ll want to get a list of what you currently have installed. To get a list of current PHP packages run the following:

 # rpm -qa |grep php

Now you can use yum to update the PHP packages on your system:

 # yum update

You should be shown a list of packages that are going to be updated. Compare it to the list of PHP packages on your system. Note any packages that are not in the list. You’ll need to remove these packages or find updates for them because they won’t work after you update to PHP 5.2.x. If that is acceptable type “y” to continue and let yum update the packages.

Once yum has completed restart Apache:

 # service httpd restart

To verify the update is working create a simple testing.php in your www directory with the following source code:

<?php
  phpinfo();
?>

and open it in a web browser. The new PHP version should be reflected at the top of the page.

This tutorial will show you how to link your Twitter account to your Facebook account. This will make anything you post to Twitter, show up as a Facebook status.

Step 1: Log into Facebook, and type “Twitter”, into the search bar at the top of the site.

Step 2: Locate the Twitter Application (Make sure you click on the application, not on the page. The app has the Twitter bird as its icon).

Step 3: Click on “Go To App” on the left hand side

Step 4: Click on “Allow”

Step 5: Type in your Twitter log on details

Step 6: Click “Allow” Once more, and you are done!

Thats it! Try posting something on Twitter and see if it shows up!

  is the entity used to represent a non-breaking space. It is essentially a standard space, the primary difference being that a browser should not break (or wrap) a line of text at the point that this   occupies.

Long Answer

  is the entity used to represent a non-breaking space. It is essentially a standard space, the primary difference being that a browser should not break (or wrap) a line of text at the point that this   occupies.

Many WYSIWYG HTML editors insert these   entities in an effort to control the layout of the HTML document. For example, such an editor may use a series of non-breaking spaces to indent a paragraph like this:

<P>
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; This first line of text is supposed to be indented. However, many browsers will not render it as intended.
</P>

As the example mentions, some browsers will not, in fact, indent the text because of how that particular browser handles the &nbsp; entity. Some browsers collapse multiple, concurrent non-breaking spaces into a single space. This sometimes happens, even if there are regular spaces separating the consecutive &nbsp; entities. So keep in mind that this “technique” can not be relied on.

There are some times when it is “acceptable” or “advisable” to use the &nbsp; entity so long as the consequences are understood:

1. Its intended use of creating a space between words or elements that should not be broken. The only problems that can be associated with this use is that too many words strung together with non-breaking spaces may require some graphical browsers to show horizontal scrollbars or cause them to display the text overlapping table borders.
2. If you need to have an empty table cell, it is often advised that you add a non-breaking space like <TD>&nbsp;</TD>. This is because some versions of Netscape seem to have problems with completely empty table cells.
3. Indentation. It is generally discouraged to use a non-breaking space, or a series of non-breaking spaces to “force” an indentation. This practice is discouraged for two primary reasons. First, not all browsers handle the &nbsp; entity properly and may in fact ignore it when rendering the document. Second, the practice of trying to “force” a specific presentation is often frowned upon as it tends to fail and/or makes it more difficult for some readers whose browsers may be configured differently from your own.

You can disable Facebook Photo tagging by few simple steps:

1.Go to your Facebook Privacy Settings

2.You also simple go to “Privacy Settings > Applications and Websites >What your friends can share about you” and Unchecked the “Photos and videos of me” .

Below mentioned screen shots will help you in disabling the Facebook Photo tagging:

a) Go to “What your friends can share about you through applications and websites”

b) Uncheck “Photos and videos of me”

After saving the changes no one can tag you via photos on walls. Though this tip will block photo tagging but your friends can still tag your profile with @username functions.

ZenCart makes it easy to do all of the above using what is called attributes.

Adding attributes in ZenCart is a three-step process.

1. Option Names
2. Option Values
3. Attributes Controller

Option Names

Option names are the titles for fields. For example, if you want a field titled “Your Name” to collect a name, you would need to create an Option Name called “Your Name”

To create Option Names, click on “Option Name Manager” under Catalog

To add a new option name, enter the following:

1. Option Name (example: Select Size)
2. Order (optional)
3. Option Type (choose dropdown, text, etc)

Once you have entered the information, click on “insert” to create.

The next step is to add a value to the name you created.

Option Names

Option Values provide the actual options for the field names you just created. For example, if you just created a field titled “Select Shirt Size” you would need to create values for it like Small, Medium, and Large.

To create Option Values, click on “Option Value Manager” under Catalog

To add a new Option Value, enter the following:

1. Choose the Option Name you want to add a value for
2. Enter Option Value (example: Small, Purple, etc)
3. Order (optional)

Once you have entered the information, click on “insert” to create.

IMPORTANT: If the value is TEXT, where customers will enter their own information, you do not need to create a value. For example, if you created an Option Name titled “Enter your name” and want customers to type in their name – just create the Option Name. You do not need to create an Option Value for it.

The next step is to add the Option Names and Values to your products.

Attributes Controller

The Attributes Controller is where you manage (or control) which Option Names and
Values are associated with which products.

To access the Attributes Controller, click on “Attributes Controller” under Catalog

When you first click to enter the Attributes Controller, you will be asked to select the category you wish to work with.

Once you select a category, you will be directed to the Attributes Controller.

The first step is to choose a product to add an attribute to.

Choose the product name you want to work with (see above) and click on “display”

Now scroll down a bit until you see:

All that basically needs to be done is:

1. Choose the desired Option Name
2. Choose the desired Option Value
3. Click on “insert”

Check back in next week for my tutorial on more features available in the Attributes Controller.

If you run into any issues, please let me know below.

Part of being a good user and consumer is understanding how technology works, why we use it the way we do, and what that barrage of acronyms and PR jargon means. We’re here to help you make sense of it all, and to give you a better appreciation of how those transistors, pixels, and antennas work together to deliver the conveniences of the modern world to your living room or office.

What is HTML5?

We’re sure by now you’ve heard the term “HTML5″ thrown around by the likes of Apple and Google. This is the next evolution of HTML, or Hyper Text Markup Language, which forms the backbone of almost every site on the Internet. HTML4, the last major iteration of the language, debuted in 1997 and has been subsequently poked and prodded so that it can handle the demands of the modern Web.

Why is it such a big deal?

HTML 4 has been tweaked, stretched and augmented beyond its initial scope to bring high levels of interactivity and multimedia to Web sites. Plugins like Flash, Silverlight and Java have added media integration to the Web, but not without some cost. In search of a “better user experience” and battery life, Apple has simply dropped support for some of these plugins entirely on mobile devices, leaving much of the media-heavy Internet inaccessible on iPads and iPhones. HTML5 adds many new features, and streamlines functionality in order to render these processor-intensive add-ons unnecessary for many common functions.

Assuming content providers sign on (and many are), this means you won’t have to worry about installing yet another plugin just to listen to a song embedded in a blog or watch a video on YouTube. Similarly, this is a big deal for platforms that either don’t support Flash (e.g., iPhone and iPad), or have well documented problems with it (e.g., Linux). It will be a particular boon to those smartphones for which supporting Flash has proven problematic.

So what exactly can it do?

HTML5′s most touted features are media playback and offline storage. With HTML4, sites usually have to reach for Flash (or Silverlight) to simply show a video or play music. HTML5 lets sites directly embed media with the simple HTML tags “<video>” and “<audio>” — no plugins required. There are some issues currently being debated by the powers that be, and a particularly sticky one deals with file format. Some companies, especially Mozilla, are pushing for the adoption of the open-source Ogg format, which is free for anyone to use. Others, like Apple, would prefer the higher quality H.264 format, which will eventually require browser makers to pay licensing fees to support it.

The other major addition that has garnered media attention is the ability to store offline data for Web apps. One of the major roadblocks in the march to replace traditional desktop apps has been that the Web-based ones are useless without an Internet connection. Google developed a stopgap solution with Gears, but that product has been retired as the company is shifting its focus to HTML5. This will mean being able to create files in Google Docs or draft e-mails when away from an Internet connection. These changes would be automatically synced the next time you’re online.

HTML5 also adds new interactivity features, like drag-and-drop, that have already found their way into Gmail.

How can I take advantage of it now?

Most likely, you’re already taking advantage of it without knowing. Safari (both mobile and desktop), Google Chrome and Firefox 3.6 all support at least some elements of HTML5. (Internet Explorer 8′s support for HTML5 is very limited.) And many Google products already use some features of the next-generation protocol. If you’re using Safari or Chrome, you can check out an experimental version of YouTube that makes use of HTML5′s video features. Gmail and Google Reader have adopted parts of the standard, as well. Additionally, any site listed here as being “iPad ready” is making extensive use of HTML5, including The New York Times, CNN and CBS. The latter of which recently announced it would be phasing out Flash in favor of HTML5 for all video content. If you want to dig a little deeper, you can check out a series of experiments from Mozilla that show just what HTML5 can do, and these design roundups show off what it brings to the table for designers and typographers.

Flash won’t be going away anytime soon, of course; it’s still widely used and supported, and those Flash-based games that we love so much are impossible to recreate using HTML. But it’s important to know that when you hear people tossing about the phrase “HTML5,” it isn’t just some meaningless buzz word; they’re talking about the future of the Internet.

WordPress has a built-in powerful post/text editor commonly known as the “Visual” editor, which uses the open source project named “TinyMCE“. When switching from Visual to HTML editor in WordPress or vice-versa TinyMCE executes a back-end filtration process which removes empty tags, and <br> tags from the post.

Needless to say, it is very irritating when a author is forced to loose his/her creative ideas by forcing these kind of annoying and unnecessary filtration.

So Now there is a solutions as Follows:

1. Go to this page http://wordpress.org/extend/plugins/tinymce-advanced/ and Download the Advanced version of Tinymce. As So.

TinyMc Advanced

2. Go to the Plugins Page >> Add New >> Upload and then Browse and find the TinyMC Advanced that you downloaded and install it then Activate it.

upload wordpress plugin

3. Then Click Settings >> TinyMCE Advanced

Settings wordpress

4. Once you are in the TinyMCE Advance Settings then simply scroll down and check box

That says

This will make it possible to use more advanced coding in the HTML editor without the back-end filtering affecting it much. However it may behave unexpectedly in rare cases, so test it thoroughly before enabling it permanently. Also line breaks in the HTML editor would still affect the output, in particular do not use empty lines, line breaks inside HTML tags or multiple <br /> tags.

wordpress line break fix

5. Go back to editing the web like it was the days of Microsoft Word. Done.

Blogging should be a little more easier from here on with the freedom of unlimited line breaks in WordPress

The term “image resolution” means how many of your image’s pixels will fit inside each inch of paper when printed. Obviously, since your photo has a fixed number of pixels, the more of them you squeeze inside each inch of paper, the smaller the image will appear on the paper. Likewise, the fewer pixels you print per inch, the larger the image will appear on paper. The number of pixels that will be printed per inch is known as the resolution of the image, or “image resolution”. Image resolution has everything to do with printing your image. It has nothing to do with how your image appears on your computer screen, which is why images you download off the internet usually appear much larger and higher quality on your screen than they do when you print them.

Let’s use a photo as an example:

I can’t help but laugh every time I see this photo of a horse I took while driving around the countryside one day. Normally this horse stands proud, powerful, full of grace and dignity, yet I seem to have caught him in a rather unflattering moment. He’s standing on a bit of a strange angle, he has a piece of straw dangling from his hair, and he seems to be in the middle of chewing his food. Either that, or he’s desperately trying to crack a smile for me. In either case, since this guy is already embarrassed, as am I for having taken this wonderful photo, let’s use this image as an example.

First, let’s look at what Photoshop can tell us about the current size of this photo. I’ll go up to the Image menu at the top of the screen and choose Image Size, which brings up the appropriately-named Image Size dialog box:

The Image Size dialog box is divided into two main sections, Pixel Dimensions at the top and Document Size directly below it. The Pixel Dimensions section tells us how many pixels are in our image. The Document Size section tells us how large the image will appear on paper if we print it. If we look at the Pixel Dimensions section, we can see that this photo has a width of 1200 pixels and a height of 800 pixels. That may sound like a lot of pixels (1200 x 800 = 960,000 pixels!), and it certainly would be if we were displaying this image on a computer screen. In fact, at 1200 x 800, it may be too large to fit entirely on your screen! But just because it looks nice and big on the screen doesn’t necessarily mean it will print nice and big, at least not with any degree of quality. Let’s take a closer look at what the Document Size section is telling us:

The Document Size section of the Image Size dialog box tells us two things – what the current resolution of our image is, and how large or small the image will appear if we print it based on that resolution. Currently, our resolution value is set to 72 pixels/inch, which means that out of the 1200 pixels that make up our photo from left to right (the width), 72 of them will print inside each inch of paper, and out of the 800 pixels that make up the image from top to bottom (the height), 72 of them will print inside each inch of paper. The value in the Resolution box is for both width and height, not the total number of pixels that will print. In other words, for every square inch of paper, 72 pixels from our image will be printed from left to right and 72 pixels will be printed from top to bottom. The total number of pixels printed in every square inch of paper would then be, in this case anyway, 72 x 72 (72 pixels for the width times 72 pixels for the height), which gives us 5184 pixels!

Let’s do some simple math ourselves to make sure that the width and height being shown to us in the Document Size section is correct. We know from the Pixel Dimensions section that we have 1200 pixels from left to right in our image and 800 pixels from top to bottom. Our print resolution is currently set to 72 pixels/inch, so to figure out how large our image will be when printed, all we need to do is divide the number of pixels from left to right by 72, which will give us our print width, and the number of pixels from top to bottom by 72, which will give us our print height. Let’s do that:

1200 pixels wide divided by 72 pixels per inch = 16.667 inches
800 pixels high divided by 72 pixels per inch = 11.111 inches

Based on our own simple calculations, at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch (ppi for short), our image would be 16.667 inches wide by 11.111 inches high when printed. And if we look at the Document Size section once again:

That’s exactly what it says! Wow, a 1200 x 800 pixel photo is large enough for an 11 x 14 inch print, with a little extra to spare! That’s great!

Sadly, no. If only life were that simple.

The fact is, 72 pixels/inch is not enough to give us sharp, good quality, professional looking images when printed. It’s not even close. To give you an idea of what I mean, here’s a rough approximation of how the photo would look on paper if we tried to print it at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch. You’ll have to use your imagination a bit here and try to imagine this at 11 x 16 inches:

Doesn’t exactly look good, does it? The problem is that at 72 pixels/inch, the image information is being spread out too far on the paper for the photo to appear sharp and detailed, sort of like spreading too little peanut butter over too much toast. The photo now appears soft, dull and generally unappealing. We don’t see this problem on a computer screen because computer monitors are generally referred to as low resolution devices. Even a photo with relatively small pixel dimensions, like 640 x 480, will look great on a computer screen. Printers, however, are high resolution devices, and if you want your photos to appear sharp and detailed when printed, you’ll need a resolution much higher than 72 pixels/inch.

So how high of a resolution value do you need for professional quality printing? The generally accepted value is 300 pixels/inch. Printing an image at a resolution of 300 pixels/inch squeezes the pixels in close enough together to keep everything looking sharp. In fact, 300 is usually a bit more than you need. You can often get by with a resolution of 240 pixels/inch without noticing any loss of image quality. The professional standard, though, is 300 pixels/inch.

Let’s take our same image then at 1200 pixels wide by 800 pixels high, change our resolution from 72 pixels/inch to 300 pixels/inch, and see what we get. Here’s the Image Size dialog box again showing the new resolution of 300 pixels/inch. Notice in the Pixel Dimensions section at the top that we still have 1200 pixels for the width and 800 pixels for the height. The only thing that’s changed is our resolution, from 72 to 300:

With our resolution now increased from 72 to 300 pixels/inch, this means that out of the 1200 pixels that make up our image from left to right, 300 of them will now print inside every inch of paper, and out of the 800 pixels contained in our image from top to bottom, 300 of them will now print inside every inch of paper. Naturally, with so many more pixels squeezing into each inch of paper, we’d expect the photo to print much smaller, and sure enough, the Document Size section is now showing that our photo will print at a size of only 4 inches wide by 2.667 inches high:

Where did those new width and height values come from? Again, some simple math is all we need:

1200 pixels wide divided by 300 pixels per inch = 4 inches
800 pixels high divided by 300 pixels per inch = 2.667 inches

The photo will now print much smaller than it would at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch, but what we lose in physical size, we more than make up for in image quality. At 300 pixels/inch (or even 240 pixels/inch), we’d enjoy sharp, detailed, professional quality print results:

Of course, most people don’t print their photos at weird sizes like 4 x 2.667, so how do we make sure we’re going to get professional quality print results with more standard print sizes like 4 x 6? An excellent question, and the answer comes to us once again through some boring yet simple math.

Let’s say you’ve taken some photos of your recent family vacation using your digital camera and you want to print out some 4 x 6′s on your printer. We know now that in order to achieve professional quality prints, we need set the resolution of our images to a minimum of 240 pixels/inch, although 300 pixels per inch is the official standard. Let’s look at both of these resolution values though to see how large of an image, in pixels, we’ll need out of the camera in order to print 4 x 6′s with good image quality. First, let’s look at 240 pixels per inch:

To figure out how large, in pixels, our images need to be in order to print 4 x 6′s at professional quality, all we need to do is multiply 240 x 4 for the width, and then 240 x 6 for the height (or vice versa depending on if your photo is in landscape or portrait mode). Let’s do that:

240 pixels per inch x 4 inches wide = 960 pixels
240 pixels per inch x 6 inches high = 1440 pixels

Based on our math, we can see that in order to print a digital photo as a 4 x 6 at 240 pixels/inch resolution, which should give us excellent quality, our photo’s pixel dimensions need to beat least 960 x 1440. We can see exactly how many pixels that is by multiplying 960 by 1440, which gives us 1,382,400 pixels. Let’s round that up to 1.4 million pixels. That may sound like a lot of pixels but it really isn’t, not when you consider that 1.4 million is the minimum number of pixels you’d need to print good quality 4 x 6 photos using the minimum resolution we can use to achieve good quality, which is 240 pixels/inch. The good news at least is that these days, most digital cameras on the market are 5MP (“mega pixels”, or “millions of pixels”) and higher, so they’d have no trouble printing good quality 4 x 6′s even using 300 pixels/inch for the resolution.

Of course, we haven’t actually looked at how many pixels we’d need to print professional quality 4 x 6′s at 300 pixels/inch, so let’s do that now. We’ll use the same simple formula as above, where we’ll multiply 300 by 4 and then 300 by 6 to give us the pixel dimensions we’ll need:

300 pixels per inch x 4 inches wide = 1200 pixels
300 pixels per inch x 6 inches high = 1800 pixels

Let’s do one more quick calculation to see how many pixels we need in total:

1200 pixels wide times 1800 pixels high = 2,160,000

So, in order to print a photo as a 4 x 6 using the professional standard of 300 pixels/inch for resolution, our photo needs to be 1200 pixels wide by 1800 pixels high (or vice versa), which means we’ll need a total of 2,160,000 pixels, which again should be no problem for most digital cameras on the market today which are 5MP and higher.

What if you have a photo you absolutely love and feel it deserves an 8 x 10 print rather than a 4 x 6? How large of an image in pixels do we need to print a good quality 8 x 10? The answer is as easy as when we needed to find out how large of an image we’d need for a 4 x 6. All we need to do is multiply the resolution value in pixels by the width in inches and do the same thing for the height. Let’s first use 240 pixels per inch as our resolution:

240 pixels per inch x 8 inches wide = 1920 pixels
240 pixels per inch x 10 inches wide = 2400 pixels
Total number of pixels = 1920 pixels wide x 2400 pixels high = 4,608,000 pixels

From our little bit of math, we can see that in order to print a photo at good quality as an 8 x 10, our photo needs to be 1920 pixels wide by 2400 pixels high (or vice versa), for a total of approximately 4.6 million pixels. Now we’re starting to push the limits of lower end digital cameras. A 4MP digital camera wouldn’t capture quite enough pixels to be able to print an image at 8 x 10 at 240 pixels/inch resolution. It would fall about 600,000 pixels short. You could still print an 8 x 10 image of course, but you most likely wouldn’t get professional looking results.

Let’s do the same calculations for an 8 x 10 at 300 pixels/inch resolution:

300 pixels per inch x 8 inches wide = 2400 pixels
300 pixels per inch x 10 inches wide = 3000 pixels
Total number of pixels = 2400 pixels wide x 3000 pixels high = 7,200,000 pixels

Now we’re really pushing the limits as far as digital cameras currently on the market. In order to be able to print a photo as an 8 x 10 using the 300 pixels/inch resolution standard, our photo needs to be 2400 pixels wide by 3000 pixels high (or vice versa), for a total of 7.2 million pixels! Now that’s a lot of pixels! This means you need at least a 7.2MP digital camera in order to be able to print your photos as 8 x 10′s and still get true, professional quality prints. Of course, keep in mind that most photos require at least a little cropping, which means you’ll need to start with even more pixels. If you know you’re going to be printing a lot of photos as 8 x 10′s, investing in a good quality 8 MP or higher camera is highly recommended.

And there we have it!